A feast indeed.. for our eyes, and to keep our adrenalin levels high!… hundreds of elephants in the Northern part of the Ndotos and back on the Milgis lugga an elephant dies … A different kind of feast for all, of course!..
Mid last month, July, with the promise of a couple of safaris, we set off with the full team of camels and men towards the east side of the Ndoto Mountains, to Ngurnit, only, half way there, we found out the safari goers weren’t coming after all.. travel restrictions, quarantine, and finding flights etc….. blame it on C—D.. Every thing can be blamed on it..
We decided to take this as a message to forget all else in the world AND go on holiday.. Head north into the Ndotos, find new routes and walk with each Milgis scout and lkiramat.. let them show us their areas, and get to know them better… Check if there is any sign of poaching, finding out about forest destruction, following up on their own wildlife reports,( which they make every day to the Milgis base)… The camels needed the exercise, PLUS the team needed to be reminded how to do a safari!! So we walked for a month through paradise and beyond!! I recommend it to you all.. it was ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS!.. We feel fantastic..
Our feast started with this in the Milgis Lugga. there is nothing like the incredible feeling of being on foot close to one of these giants.. .. this one was a little nervous as he was between us and the camels so he was pushing it..
That evening I go for a little bird watch along the bank, where the water comes to the surface, at Leamu, dogs playing in the water..
I look up and there’s an eley just a few meters away.. Just drinking..!!
Up and onwards towards the mountains.. and look what is waiting for us.. Hundreds and hundreds of happy elephants!!
Onwards up into the Ndikir Lauri ( the camels pass) our ‘safari’ ( journey) takes us..
every night Lemagas diligently puts the camera out to catch who’s passing our camp..
onwards and forwards up into the mountains..
Now back to the ‘road block’/traffic jam.. We were completely surrounded by elephants.. it was a narrow ridge and we spent the morning just watching..
Our planned route was to follow up the ridge up to the top.. the elephants had a different idea for us..
Up on the little hill, up the ridge there, is this rather unhappy elephant.. there is something bothering him today..
I have to remind you that ALL the elephants from Mounts Kulal, Nyiru, Ldonyo mara, and Ndotos, ie every animal north of the Milgis lugga except for Marsabit mountain were completely wiped out by poachers at the end of last century, although luckily some ran away to the safety of Samburu park and Laikipia..
And these are the ones showing the way..
We sit on a rock and watch the elephants go about their day.. Because all the other Elephants were calm we decided maybe the agitated one got stung or something as none of the others took any notice!!
Sadly time to move on and for the next adventure…
Back home 3 weeks later we were sad to hear the news of a elephant that had died below our home… SAD of course BUT happy hyenas, lions, mongooses, bush pigs, etc.. plenty to eat for a few days, BUT fascinating to see how hard it is for them to break through the skin !..
We managed to stick the camera back together and put it down at the dead elephant, but realised the lens is now pointing in a different direction.. But still managed to capture some of the happy visitors enjoying a feast!!
Wow Helen, what a fabulous post. Thank you. All those beautiful elephants – amazing. Just having the time to sit and watch them for hours is such a privilege. Stunning scenery too. I cannot imagine how lovely it must be to set off for a whole month – just a dream come true. Though missing out on clients must have been annoying. I do wonder when all this nonsense is going to stop! I am DYING to get back to Africa but the restrictions are SO difficult. seeing all those animals feeding on the dead elephant is wonderful – just shows what is actually living there. I have never seen a striped hyena. The terrain looked tricky for the camels – I have never thought of them as mountain animals. Do they ever cut their feet on the rocks? Looking forward to the desert post next. All love Jane
What another fantastic and exciting report of your magical lives !! No words to describe how amazing it is to hear about and see ALL those elephants in the Ndotos. As you say, there was a message waiting for you to tell you more about how this massive miracle of the wildlife coming back is unfolding before your eyes, thanks to the Scouts and hard and consistent work you all do. It must have been such fun and so rewarding finding new paths and sharing time and discoveries with your Scouts and guards.
I was utterly amazed to see your night photo of a striped hyena. What an incredibly rare site ! Just fantastic and so exciting to see the diversity of the wildlife that is building up around you.
Thanks for the most wonderful news letter and I can’t wait to go on one of your safaris !
Mingi love,
Nicola
So amazing to see that many elephants high up in the mountains! I can’t wait to go back to the Ndotos! And by the way it looks pretty green, seems like the rain has come 🙂
Wonderful story and photos
Thank you for sharing your holiday… wish we could join you but for a change… we are locked down in wintery NZ. Spring around the corner..
Lovely
Coco And Lyall
We so enjoy your wonderful safaris, you are so lucky to live the life
you both live. Away from all the problems life and this wretched covid
is causing. We miss going to Koros now that Nick has sold it but happy memories.
Love from us at Kilifi
Andrew and i have just lived your adventures through your beautiful blog…cheering up two of your biggest fans on a cold grey bank holiday monday in Norfolk!
More, more, more pleeeeesse!
Wow Helen, what a fabulous post. Thank you. All those beautiful elephants – amazing. Just having the time to sit and watch them for hours is such a privilege. Stunning scenery too. I cannot imagine how lovely it must be to set off for a whole month – just a dream come true. Though missing out on clients must have been annoying. I do wonder when all this nonsense is going to stop! I am DYING to get back to Africa but the restrictions are SO difficult. seeing all those animals feeding on the dead elephant is wonderful – just shows what is actually living there. I have never seen a striped hyena. The terrain looked tricky for the camels – I have never thought of them as mountain animals. Do they ever cut their feet on the rocks? Looking forward to the desert post next. All love Jane
What another fantastic and exciting report of your magical lives !! No words to describe how amazing it is to hear about and see ALL those elephants in the Ndotos. As you say, there was a message waiting for you to tell you more about how this massive miracle of the wildlife coming back is unfolding before your eyes, thanks to the Scouts and hard and consistent work you all do. It must have been such fun and so rewarding finding new paths and sharing time and discoveries with your Scouts and guards.
I was utterly amazed to see your night photo of a striped hyena. What an incredibly rare site ! Just fantastic and so exciting to see the diversity of the wildlife that is building up around you.
Thanks for the most wonderful news letter and I can’t wait to go on one of your safaris !
Mingi love,
Nicola
Fabulous to see so many eles up there! Decades and decades of hard work are really paying off!
So amazing to see that many elephants high up in the mountains! I can’t wait to go back to the Ndotos! And by the way it looks pretty green, seems like the rain has come 🙂
Wonderful story and photos
Thank you for sharing your holiday… wish we could join you but for a change… we are locked down in wintery NZ. Spring around the corner..
Lovely
Coco And Lyall
We so enjoy your wonderful safaris, you are so lucky to live the life
you both live. Away from all the problems life and this wretched covid
is causing. We miss going to Koros now that Nick has sold it but happy memories.
Love from us at Kilifi
Andrew and i have just lived your adventures through your beautiful blog…cheering up two of your biggest fans on a cold grey bank holiday monday in Norfolk!
More, more, more pleeeeesse!
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